With the arrival of morning, it was time to say goodbye to Munich and our charming hotel. Two days (1-1/2 really) had barely opened the door to the city’s rich history and magnificent architecture but another adventure beckoned, Salzburg…
Oh Salzburg, small, intimate, romantic, we couldn’t wait. We grabbed our bags, retraced our steps to that very spot in Marienplatz where we first felt the excitement of Christmas in Munich and descended underground. Fifteen minutes later we scrambled out of a subway and into a train platform, still underground!
Munich Central Station, main floor
People were scurrying around us, people who knew where they were going and how to get there. We must have looked obviously confused because an elder German gentleman came up from nowhere and “befriended” us. No worries, he would show us where the ticket desk is located.
Now this is a situation that makes me ill at ease. As the gentleman and I walked side by side toward the upper level and daylight, he told me about his trip to New York some 20 years ago and how someone helped him find his way. I couldn’t concentration for wondering whether he expected cash or truly wanted to help. Meanwhile, the family was a short distance behind and content to follow along.
Tickets were purchased and the elderly gentleman
disappeared, no money was exchanged. As
we left the ticket counter for the gate, the gentleman appeared again,
frantically pointed in the direction we were going, and in his thickly accented
English we heard, “the gate, this way, go this way.” Secretly I wondered if we would see him again at the Salzburg station!
John, Tory, Daniel, Lee and Bebe waiting on the train
Traveling through the Bavarian countryside by train is a lovely experience. We pressed our faces against the windows as quaint, gingerbread villages and farm lands flew by, first in Germany and then Austria. Snow levels increased as we neared the foothills of the Bavarian Alps and dissipated on the other side. After a short 1-1/2 hours, we pulled into Salzburg and disembarked. Our hotel was a 10 minute taxi ride from the station, or two taxis for our group of six with luggage.
Built in 1890, Hotel Bristol is all about Old Europe. We loved the art, the chandeliers, heavy velvet drapes and antiques. The service was impeccable.
Our room was located on the second floor just to the right of the main entrance. We could step out on our balcony and see the old historic city.
Left: Our room at the Hotel Bristol with an
elegant crystal chandelier and walkout balcony, Right: Hallway with chandeliers, velvet drapes and fine antiques
At the suggestion of the Hotel Bristol staff, we walked to the K+K Restaurant for lunch. That meant walking a block from the hotel to the Salzach River, over the pedestrian bridge and into Old Town Salzburg, a quick 10 minutes in the cold. As a group, we ate a lot of schnitzel in Germany and Austria, from well prepared to “bar food” schnitzel. By far, the best schnitzel we ate was at the K+K.
Us outside the entrance to the K+K Restaurant am Waagplatz where we ate a fine lunch: Salzburger Schnitzel-lightly breaded pork escalope stuffed with onions, bacon and mushrooms with potatoes and salad
After lunch we set about to explore Old Town on foot. Of the three cities visited on this trip, Salzburg was the most walkable – small, cozy and easy to navigate. The narrow streets were brick or cobblestone and most were pedestrian only. Aside from visiting cathedrals (which I never seem to get enough of) , we strolled the Christmas markets and browsed a number of interesting shops.
Salzburg is the birthplace of Mozart and the city has capitalized on his name. Among the most visible references were Mozart chocolate candy, Mozart chocolate liquor and Mozart street mimes on every corner. Some were ridiculous looking, some really didn’t get the mime thing but the fellow below was absolutely the best!
Mozart Street Mime
We never figured out his shtick but we think he had a seat attached to a rod running along his right arm that is attached to the stick. The base has something to do with the balance.
We were spoiled by the Munich Christmas markets and initially disappointed in the Salzburg markets. I had counted on all the markets carrying similar merchandise but the gifts I waited to buy in Salzburg were not available. I know, I know, if you see something you like buy it, don’t wait. I have experienced this over and over on our travels but I don’t seem to quite learn the lesson. Nevertheless, we had fun strolling the Salzburg markets and sampling the mulled wine and food.
Main Christmas Market in Domplatz – Salzburg
Catholicism is the main religion of Salzburg and several cathedrals were located on the outskirts of the Christmas market in Domplatz. The first cathedral we explored was Salzburg Cathedral or Salzburger Dom. The Dom is known for its Renaissance architecture and 4,000 pipe organ. Massive bronze doors open to expose a soft white and sepia interior. Just inside the front doors sits a large font. Mozart was baptized here and later served as the organist.
The altar, Salzburg Cathedral
We did not get into Mozart’s birthplace in Old Town but did visit his boyhood home, which is now a museum (below).
The view from our hotel balcony included the home where Mozart spent his youth. On the hill directly behind the house is Fortress Hohensalzburg, which is mentioned in historical records dating back as early as 1077 AD.
Us in a park beside Hotel Bristol
Daniel on one of the statues in the park
Lee “Tebowing” on the same statue
Fortress Hohensalzburg was one of the few sights we saw in depth (two days per city schedule has its limitations). Hohensalzburg sits on a hilltop above Salzburg and is probably the city’s most dominate and biggest attraction. Originally built as a castle in 1077, Hohensalzburg was rebuilt into the fortress that currently stands between the 12th and 13th century.
Inner courtyard at Fortress Hohensalzburg. The Christmas market here was only open for the first couple of weekends in December.
View of Salzburg from Hohensalzburg: Old Town Salzburg is left of the river, newer Salzburg right of the Salzach River
A few hours exploring Hohensalzburg was not enough but lunch beckoned us back to the city. We had heard tale of St. Peter’s Stiftskeller, the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Central Europe. Located in an alcove of St. Peter’s Abbey Church, the cozy restaurant turned out to be our most expensive meal of the trip. Shouldn’t be hard to guess what we ordered…
Salzburg Schnitzel and parsley potatoes. This time at St. Peter Stiftskeller, which was first documented in existence in 803 AD
After lunch we explored the magnificent St. Peter’s Abbey Church, also located in Domplatz. The Abbey, founded in 696 AD, is where Mozart first premiered his Mass in C Minor in 1793 and the Van Trapp family hid from the Germans in the Sound of Music film. The Abbey cemetery is the oldest in Salzburg and where the remains of Mozart’s sister, Joseph Hyden’s brother and many of Salzburg’s aristocrats are located.
St. Peter’s Abbey Church looking toward the altar
Much of our time in Salzburg was spent walking and browsing. H&M was on Daniel and Tory’s list of shops to see, “Christmas in Salzburg” was on ours. We had read about the shop on “must see” Salzburg travel sights and heard about it from friends Duane and Angela Simmons.
The shop alluded us for a day and a half then, quite by accident, we stumbled upon it on the way back to our hotel. Windows filled with twinkling lights and painted ornaments lured us in, 1000s of hand painted egg ornaments kept us there for a while.
“Christmas in Salzburg” holiday windows
A small sample of the many thousands of eggs for sale. Note the Mozart eggs hanging on the tree and in several cartons. We came home with about 1/2 dozen eggs.
A wet snow began to fall as we wrapped up our final night in Old Town Salzburg. We scurried across the pedestrian bridge and home before the wind and dropping temperatures turned the winter wonderland into a treacherous obstacle course. John and I watched the snow from our balcony and talked about our trip. Tomorrow, Vienna…
Our last evening enjoying Christmas lights in Salzburg
Festive Old Town Salzburg
Night view from our hotel window. The building with purple lights is the Opera House, arched lights in the center of the photo run along the pedestrian bridge to Old Town.
