Every year we look forward to the Sierra Club annual winter backpack. Some years the weather is warm, but this year did not disappoint, the trip provided as much cold weather as we could stand.
Hike leader Ron Shrieves had scheduled the bp for Frozen Head State Park in the Cumberland Mountains. His original plan was to leave Oak Ridge at 8:30 AM for a 30 minute drive and six mile hike to Tubb Springs campsite. John and I were concerned about his shoulder; he had not carried a backpack since his bicycle accident in mid-September. We also though that 8:30 was a very early departure for a six mile hike, especially with the anticipated frigid conditions. We conferred with Will Skelton and all decided to leave Knoxville at 12:30 PM, hike the 3.5-mile North Old Mac Trail and meet the group at the campsite.
Ron’s group plans changed to a later departure and changed again when signing in at the Visitor’s Center where he learned that the campsite was full. The group was assigned to the Mart Fields campsite via the Spicewood Trail and Ron notified us of the changes by cell. We left Knoxville as planned and started hiking at 2:18 PM (we got lost on the way to the trailhead but don’t ask).
Will on the corridor trail that eventually turned into the Spicewood Trail
The Spicewood Trail was a gradual incline that stretched over 3.9 miles. I should say the trail was billed as “gradual”, in reality it climbed almost 500′ per mile. It was a pleasant hike. We figured the temperature was below freezing but the climbing kept us warm.
John on the Spicewood Trail, stopping for a snack and to zip up against the light wind
John’s shoulder did just fine. The hike took a little longer than expected but we could smell the campfire before we could see the campsite so the anticipation helped push us through the final uphill climb. We arrived about 5:00 PM and were pleased to discover a large flat site on the top of the mountain with incredible views on both sides. Ron and group (Steve Harvey, Linda Morrison, Marti Hands and Terri Cox) had their tents set up and were sitting around a roaring campfire. We were surprised to learn that they had arrived only 30 minutes or so before us.
A sunset worth braving the cold
We had a simple but delicious dinner: pine nut couscous with grilled chicken and fresh spinach. It was filling and didn’t make much mess. By the time we settled down to dinner, the temps were in the mid to low 20’s and a slight breeze blew swirling the campfire smoke around the campsite. By this time, I was wearing long underwear, a fleece vest, fleece jacket, down jacket, 2 sets of gloves, 2 pair of socks, fleece pants, Will’s old down booties, a wool hat and the hood from my down jacket to block the gusts of wind. It was cold!
Ron sitting around the campfire. Terri Cox in the back with the blue jacket
The campfire with John’s crocs and Will’s new booties. Face behind the smoke are Steve (standing) and Linda (sitting).
The group called it a night around 9:00 PM. Even with the fire, it was cold and we were ready to crawl in our warm sleeping bags. Most of our cameras were acting temperamental in the cold.
Chimney Top ridge trail
Morning arrived too soon and it was time to climb out of my nice, warm sleeping bag. John had crawled out of his sleeping bag a few minutes earlier and started heating hot water for drinks and breakfast. Yeah John! It snowed lightly overnight and we were informed that the temp had dropped to 5 F, probably 0 F with windchill. My feet and hands suffered greatly, a not so gentle reminder that I need to come up with a better cold weather system for both.
We hiked out on the Chimney Top trail. It is a 4.9 mile killer trail. I found this description of the trail on a website describing the 7 significant trails in Frozen Head.
“The Frozen Head trail map describes Chimney Top trail as difficult with 3,460′ of elevation gain/loss. They got that part correct: It is very difficult and includes two major climbs and descents (more than 1,000′ elev. change each) plus several more minor ones. Some grades are in excess of 20%. Better eat your Wheaties and leave that heavy pack at home. Take plenty of water and energy snacks.”
Well, we had to carry our heavy packs. It was very cold and we never really warmed up. The visitors center came into sight long after we expected, almost 4 hours after we left the campsite. We were very happy to be off the trail and in a the warm car driving home.
The Chimney Top trail is named for some incredible rock formations along the way. This is just one of many. Additional pictures of the rocks and other pictures from the trip are located at this link ( click on Outdoors and Frozen Head) http://smithposts.smugmug.com/
A very cold me along the Chimney Trail, and yes, we had just climbed straight up the ridge in the back of the picture, no switchbacks here!
Ice on one of the rock formations.
