VanLife #11-Goodbye to Friends

We are home now after 48 buggy hours in Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area located near Oneida, TN. I have a couple of nasty bites on my forehead, John’s lower legs are covered in red chigger welts. We are veterans of warm, Tennessee weather, which makes me wonder,” where were our head nets, why didn’t we use bug spray, what were we thinking?”

This trip was a farewell of sorts, to friends who are in the process of moving to Port Ludlow, Washington. They have been at this moving process since last September when, while visiting friends in Port Ludlow, they impulsively purchased a house. BJ is a native Tennessean and Bob, a long-ago transplant. Their entire married life has, to-date, played out in East Tennessee. But these weeks of late April and early May will put a period at the end of their Tennessee chapter. We will miss them.

Bandy Creek Campground, located in the Tennessee section of Big South Fork, was the trip destination. Our group, six in number, included us, Bob and BJ and friends, Paul and Libby. Bandy Creek is an easy 2-hour drive from Knoxville and ranks near the top of BJ’s favorite campgrounds. Hiking and limited bicycling is accessible directly out of the campground, which makes this a popular place. Bob and BJ were on their “shake down” trip in a new camper, a 23′ grey and white Winnebago EKKO. John and I were on our 11th camp trip since October 2022 in our silver, 21′ Travato and Paul and Libby in their smaller, custom built, 19′ Ram van of which they have been camping for about 5-years now.

We were all in camp by 3:00ish or so. Although the gnats were beyond annoying, the day was warm, the sun was shining, and the humidity was pleasantly low. We sat outside and talked about everything from the big Washington move, our late summer van trip to Alaska, past hikes and camps trips to family, death and other darker topics. As the sun set and evening settled in, BJ served appetizers and Libby fed us vegetarian chili and cornbread. Then the air cooled, darkness surrounded us, and we pulled our chairs around a warm fire. I looked at each person’s face around the fire with their features illuminated by the flames and felt very peaceful. As we talked, insects sang in the forest and millions of stars twinkled above us. Time slipped by quickly and too soon it was time to call it a night. John and I both slept well.

Morning brought more sunshine and even warmer temperatures. I don’t remember such warm weather so early last year, but I am sure I have just forgotten. Because John and I were they only ones without bicycles, the group decided to walk with us. The walk turned into a hike to a rock house on the John Litton Farm Trail. We had expected that others would bicycle while we walked the road, so we did not bring hiking gear. No gear means no boots, no poles, no packs and no water bottles. I can’t remember the last time I hiked without boots or poles, and I admit to a little concern about injury, but I threw caution to the wind.

John and I hiked out about 2.5-miles then turned around and hiked back. I was in a new pair of runners, John in an old pair of athletic shoes. We were careful and neither of us slipped or tripped on the roots and rocks. The others kept going for another 1.5-miles before turning around.

Spring wildflowers were in bloom along the trail. Scattered among the leaves and brush, Pink Lady’s Slippers (Cypripedium acaule) were showy. Each plant produces with one, single bloom atop a thin stem with two leaves at the base. The pink flowers, in the shape of slippers, stood out in the woodland setting.

Also in abundance was the Dwarf Iris. I am always delighted to discover my first Dwarf Iris bloom in the spring, and they were plentiful on this hike. The Dwarf Iris (Iris verna) was a favorite wildflower of my mother’s, so each sighting is a little reminder of her.

From a little landing on the trail, we stopped to admire a waterfall along the Fall Branch Creek. The base of the fall looked like a fine swimming hole if we were looking for such and certainly, we were hot and buggy enough to jump in, but didn’t.

Big South Fork and other hiking areas on the Cumberland Plateau are sought out for their incredible rock formations, arches, chimneys, cracks and rock shelters or houses. Mostly sandstone and shale, these rocks have weathered time to produce some amazing structures. This trail did not disappoint as we passed several rock walls and overhangs. A few are shown below.

As usual, the photographer is absent in most photos, as is the case in this one. This is our group photo from the falls landing where John and I turned around. Front left: BJ, Bob and Libby, back left: Katie, John and Paul.

John and I left late Friday morning (April 21) after our 4th incredible group meal, all of which were mostly prepared by BJ and Libby. The remaining four said goodbye to us from their bicycles as they headed out for a ride. Bob and BJ had booked their campsite for another night although they planned to leave late afternoon. Paul had a midafternoon conference call, so he and Libby stayed behind to spend some of the afternoon with Bob and BJ.

Funny, John and I had struggled with this trip. We were still dragging from our bicycle trip on the Silver Comet-Chief Ladiga Trail a week or so ago and we have another multi-day bicycle trip coming up quickly. But as we drove away, we talked about how glad we were that we had not missed this opportunity to spend time with friends.