Expected Mileage: 9.0
Actual Mileage: 10.0
Best Part of the Day: This was the most beautiful hiking day so far.
Worst Part of the Day: The difficulties I continued to have with feet and as of this day, blisters around ankles.
Bonus: An amazing B&B
Accommodations: Roraima House
Rating: One of the best, favorite host and hostess (tied with Willow Tree on Day 1)
Date: Saturday, May 12, 2018
Hello Leslie and Mike,
We are in the marvelous seaside village of Staithes in the Roraima House B&B.
The b&b is run by a charming couple named Jane and Jon Kirpatrick, she is from this area, he is from the US (Cleveland, Ohio). Long story about how they met but they purchased this inn last fall from a retiring couple. They are our best hosts so far (actually tied with the Willow Tree) and it is lovely to talk to someone who sounds just like us.
Our room, on the 2nd floor, is large and airy with big windows overlooking the cliffs we crossed today. We have a big, cozy canopy bed and a huge bathroom. It is a good place to rest and recover.
We walked 10 miles today including the distance to our inn. The walk was very different from other days in that the North Sea was in sight all day. But like every other day, the morning started with an uphill trek and in this case, the climb was 200 or so steps up to the top of the cliff. Ouch!
We spent our day walking along the cliff’s edge watching the sea gulls catch the wind currents coming up the side of the cliff. So beautiful to see them soar. The path was narrow and we often had to step off for local walkers and their dogs. Two words to describe every dog we have come in contact with so far, “well mannered”. (This was the first time a door opened in my mind about getting a dog-John had been talking about it for years. We now have a dog and “well-mannered” does not come easily. I love our little girl but WHAT WAS I THINKING???)
The scenery didn’t change much. At one point we had to walk down off the cliff and go through a jetty at sea level. A little seaside village named Skinningrove sat on the otherside of the jetty, just before the next cliff we had to climb. It was very nondescript group of houses and other buildings but it had lovely clean, beachside bathrooms and a little food truck where I got a regular Pepsi for energy. Then, of course we had the obligatory 200+ steps up to the next cliff.
I am having a lot of trouble with my feet, mostly tenderness on the tops where my foot bends as I walk – struggling muscles and tendons I guess. Also some arch discomfort. Took me a while to get warmed up today and I had a lot of starts and stops to adjust and fidget. John who is usually pretty tolerant of my bad days walked ahead at times. His knee is bothering him some but mostly only if he sits for long. He is dreading the 14 mile day and keeps talking about a cab. I have been against it until today. Now I say maybe, I am not sure my feet will get me through the remaining 42 miles. Tomorrow, an 11.5 mile day promises a few more uphill challenges and a potential high tide challenge.
Along with my foot issues,I am having issues with my hiking socks, either a wool reaction (although I wear liner socks) or heat rash. I have big welts around and above my ankles. As long as I don’t touch them, they don’t itch. Oh well, if it isn’t one thing, it is another.
Guess that is about it for tonight, I have left some things out but I got most of it and some complaining in 😊 so I think I will call it a night!
Beautiful photos but that one of the fish & chips is the best. We visited my relatives in Scotland when I was a kid (with a growing kid’s hunger) and I lived on take-away fish & chips because their idea of a big home meal just wasn’t big enough. Still one of my favorite meals. Thanks for rekindling some good memories! 🙂
Fish and chips are synonymous with comfort food. After the trip I had a love/hate relationship with them but honestly, if I could go again, I would eat fish and chips at every opportunity.
I swear this will be one of the first trips I look into after we are sprung from our confinement! It would be beautiful and adventuresome in good times, but I really wish we could do it right now as a perfect way to socially distance ourselves!
It would be a great social distancing activity if you could avoid the busy time and walk in the shoulder season on either side of summer. We were told the trail is busy during the summer. On the other hand, even in the shoulder season there are the B&B’s to deal with and restaurants/pubs.
I have really enjoyed “re-experiencing” this trip as I have pulled together these posts. Adventuring without walking out the door! Makes me more determined to walk the Portuguese Camino as soon as it makes sense.