Smithposts…
Staithes, England

The Cleveland Way, Day 6, Saltburn-by-the Sea to Staithes

Expected Mileage: 9.0
Actual Mileage: 10.0
Best Part of the Day: This was the most beautiful hiking day so far.
Worst Part of the Day: The difficulties I continued to have with feet and as of this day, blisters around ankles.
Bonus: An amazing B&B

Accommodations: Roraima House
Rating: One of the best, favorite host and hostess (tied with Willow Tree on Day 1)
Date: Saturday, May 12, 2018

Hello Leslie and Mike,

We are in the marvelous seaside village of Staithes in the Roraima House B&B.

No problem with that SLOW sign 😉 , by this point of the day, we were not going fast.
Hiking on the North Sea section of The Cleveland Way from seaside village to village was reminiscent to hiking between villages in Cinque Terre, Italy, only the distance between the villages was much further and the treat at the end here was fish and chips. These seaside villages (in this case, Staithes) were full of history. We would have enjoyed having more time, and for me less painful feet, to explore the villages.

  The b&b is run by a charming couple named Jane and Jon Kirpatrick, she is from this area, he is from the US (Cleveland, Ohio). Long story about how they met but they purchased this inn  last fall from a retiring couple.   They are our best hosts so far (actually tied with the Willow Tree) and it is lovely to talk to someone who sounds just like us.  

Our adorable B&B was located at the top of a hill, which was a steep climb from the waterfront where most of the shops and restaurants were located. We were happy to discover the trail the next day began on top of this hill.

Our room, on the 2nd floor,  is large and airy with big windows overlooking the cliffs we crossed today.  We have a  big, cozy canopy bed and a huge bathroom.  It is a good place to rest and recover.

Comfy bed. In one of the posts I mention that most European beds are made up with a bottom sheet and comforter only. The comforters are winter and summer weight. Unfortunately for us the winter weight comforters were still in use so we slept hot….most nights.
We ate dinner at the Captain Cook Inn and Pub (photo from their website). A lady we hiked with many days who was also on an Absolute Escapes planned trip, stayed here and liked it. The Inn was located at near our B&B so we did not have to walk down and up the steep hill for dinner. A win for me.
Obviously we were not done with fish and chips on this trip.I remember this as one of the better fish and chips meals we had. The choices in a pub are limited and fish and chips was our best option.

We walked 10 miles today including the distance to our inn. The walk was very different from other days in that the North Sea was in sight all day.  But like every other day, the morning started with an uphill trek and in this case, the climb was 200 or so steps up to the top of the cliff.  Ouch!

Cliff walking
Windmill farm

We spent our day walking  along the cliff’s edge watching the sea gulls catch the wind currents coming up the side of the cliff.  So beautiful to see them soar.  The path was narrow and we often had to step off for local walkers and their dogs.  Two words to describe every dog we have come in contact with so far,  “well mannered”.  (This was the first time a door opened in my mind about getting a dog-John had been talking about it for years. We now have a dog and “well-mannered” does not come easily. I love our little girl but WHAT WAS I THINKING???)

We stopped here to eat lunch and look at the sea.
The views are endless
The acorn and yellow arrow mark our path. Glorious walking through sunny rapeseed fields

The scenery didn’t change much.  At one point we had to walk down off the cliff and go through a jetty at sea level. A little seaside village named Skinningrove sat on the otherside of the jetty, just before the next cliff we had to climb. It was very nondescript group of houses and other buildings but it had lovely clean, beachside bathrooms and a little food truck where I got a regular Pepsi for energy. Then, of course we had the obligatory 200+ steps up to the next cliff.  

Steps down the cliff. The trail goes through the jetty.
A traditional fishing coble, this particular boat was once owned by a fisherman from Skinningrove who died in the 80’s. The boat has been refinished and is a memorial to all Skinningrove fisherman who have died at sea.
The seaside village of Skinningrove. Yep, steps back up to the cliffs.
Looking back at Skinningrove, a village of only a few streets but friendly and Ohhhh, that Pepsi!

I am having a lot of trouble with my feet, mostly tenderness on the tops where my foot bends as I walk – struggling muscles and tendons I guess. Also some arch discomfort.  Took me a while to get warmed up today and I had a lot of starts and stops to adjust and fidget.  John who is usually pretty tolerant of my bad days walked ahead at times.  His knee is bothering him some but mostly only if he sits for long.  He is dreading the 14 mile day and keeps talking about a cab.  I have been against it until today.  Now I say maybe, I am not sure my feet will get me through the remaining 42 miles.  Tomorrow, an 11.5 mile day promises a few more uphill challenges and a potential high tide challenge.

Along with my foot issues,I am having  issues with my hiking socks, either a wool reaction (although I wear liner socks) or heat rash.  I have big welts around and above my ankles.  As long as I don’t touch them, they don’t itch.  Oh well, if it isn’t one thing, it is another.  

Guess that is about it for tonight, I have left some things out but I got most of it and some complaining in 😊 so I think I will call it a night!

Love, 
Beverly

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4 Comments

  1. lexklein
    March 21, 2020 / 10:23 am

    I swear this will be one of the first trips I look into after we are sprung from our confinement! It would be beautiful and adventuresome in good times, but I really wish we could do it right now as a perfect way to socially distance ourselves!

    • smithposts
      Author
      March 21, 2020 / 5:09 pm

      It would be a great social distancing activity if you could avoid the busy time and walk in the shoulder season on either side of summer. We were told the trail is busy during the summer. On the other hand, even in the shoulder season there are the B&B’s to deal with and restaurants/pubs.
      I have really enjoyed “re-experiencing” this trip as I have pulled together these posts. Adventuring without walking out the door! Makes me more determined to walk the Portuguese Camino as soon as it makes sense.

  2. Boots on the Trail
    March 21, 2020 / 9:58 am

    Beautiful photos but that one of the fish & chips is the best. We visited my relatives in Scotland when I was a kid (with a growing kid’s hunger) and I lived on take-away fish & chips because their idea of a big home meal just wasn’t big enough. Still one of my favorite meals. Thanks for rekindling some good memories! 🙂

    • smithposts
      Author
      March 21, 2020 / 5:14 pm

      Fish and chips are synonymous with comfort food. After the trip I had a love/hate relationship with them but honestly, if I could go again, I would eat fish and chips at every opportunity.

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