The Cleveland Way, Day 3, Osmotherley to Clay Bank

Actual Hike: As Billed (B&B host drove us to Great Broughton)
Expected Mileage: 11
Actual Mileage: 12
Times I cursed the trail: 3, for hours- up and over Cringle, Cold and Hasty Bank Moors
Nights we have now had trail snacks in our room for dinner: 2 (out of 3 days on the trail)

Accommodations: Dromonby Bridge
Rating: Interesting, Good
Date: Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Notes: The things we imagined doing while we were home in the planning process, like exploring in the villages and eating dinner at local pubs did not happen as often as we would have liked. This is my biggest regret of the trip. We were mostly very tired after 5-8 hours of walking (8-14 miles) each day. Taking on another 2-4 or more miles did not appeal. We missed poking around some interesting places and we missed eating dinner on a number of evenings. This evening in Great Broughton included.

This post (below) to my sister was just a handful of bullet points I wanted to remember. I was too tired to write much. I will fill in a bit but this post will be more photos and less words. You will have to forgive me for posting so many pictures. While this was our hardest day, the difficulty brought with it one of the most beautiful days on the trail.

Dear Leslie,

We are in Great Broughton tonight at the Dromonby Bridge B&B after a challenging 12.0 miles across the Yorkshire Moors, or should I say, up and down.  Did I say fields of lavender yesterday, oh my, I meant fields of Heather, I must have thought I was in France.  So this evening after some social tea time accompanied by a sleeve of cookies, was followed by a dinner of cheese and apples (left over from lunch) in the room and showers, it is almost time to go to bed.

In lieu of a lengthy “write” I am going to list some phrases and hope I get a chance to write about them in detail.  It has been a rewarding, demanding day and one to remember.  Speaking of demanding, so proud of your and Mike’s walking. Two miles is a great place to start and is 2 miles further than you were walking a month ago (little steps = big changes).  We are like you and need to change in our diet when we get home.

Love,
Beverly

The views never got old!

Notes: We started our hike from our B&B in Osmotherley, which accounts for most of the extra mileage. The walking was not difficult for a while. We following the amazing stone walls through lush green fields. Carefully following the trail so as to not tromp on active farms.

If you look closely you can see the trail running a few feet to the right of the wall.
We entered a farmer’s field, though this cattle gate, though the field and to the right into the forest.
Lovely flowers trailside in the forest.
The the climb to the top of Live Moor.
On the top of Live Moor looking in the distance to Roseberry Topping
Looking south-west over Live Moor.
Walking among the fields of heather.
Standing beside a trig pillar and boundary stone on Carlton Moor. So lucky to be doing this but I don’t really look like I am smiling…
You can see the trail running down the Moor, across a flattish area and up and over the next Moor. A less elaborate stone wall is visible, reinforced by wooden fencing.
Up, up and away!
Always fascinated by the stone walls. The trail marches down one Moor and right up another. If you look closely, you can see another hiker just beyond the 1st stone wall.
John on the final ascent to Hasty Bank.
Looking back from where we came.
And here we are on Hasty Bank and the Wain Stones. All we have to do is find a phone signal, call our B&B host then walk another 3/4 of mile and finish the final, very steep descent to the road to Clay Bank and wait for our host.

BULLET POINTS

1. Straight up and down, no switchbacks, rock lines trail and steps.
So I may have exaggerated a little bit, a few switchbacks but not many. Some gravel on the trail but mostly rock, and yes, steps up the Moors.

2. Two gradual climbs and descents, 3 wicked ones: Cringle, Cold and Hasty 
The gradual climbs came early and the ascents and descents along the Moors became steeper, ending with a very steep descent off Hasty.

3. Amazing views of Yorkshire fields
Not much else needs to be said of that.

4. First glimpse of the North Sea on Cringle Moor in the horizon.  We are headed that way.
John caught a glimpse of the North Sea from the top of one of the Moors, very faint, very far away. Exciting and encouraging but we were still two days away.

5. Tea house with thatch roof on the trail, tea cakes, strawberry jam and well, diet coke for me, tea for John
Located past Carlton Moor, we were so happy to stumble on Lord Stones café . It is bunker style and partially hidden by trees so there isn’t much notice except that a road runs behind the bunker. The café is located trailside! The food is homemade and it was hard to choose but we decided on tea cakes.

The front of Lord Stones café, popular with hikers and those traveling by car.
Tea cakes, butter, strawberry jam and Diet Coke for me.

6. More people on trail
We saw more people on the trail than the past two days.

7. Talking grouse
Grouse mating season is April and May. The heather fields were alive with grouse talking to each other. I believe there is more on this in a post to come.

8. Cooler temps, sun in and out of clouds.
Thankfully it had cooled down because we were in the sun most of the day.

9. Very windy and cold at top of Moors.
Enough said.

10. Janet missed trail.
We hiked with Janet for a while then she wanted to hike by herself. She ended up loosing the trail around Hasty and finally found a sweet spot where her phone would work. While Dave drove us to the B&B, we talked her up and down Hasty. He settled us in with a cup of tea (of course) and went back for her.

11. Hippie Dave our inn keeper
Our B&B host, Dave was a 60’s hippie. We called him Hippie Dave. He couldn’t have been nicer. He warmly offered to drive us to a local pub for dinner but all Janet, John and I could think about was getting off our feet and going to sleep.

12. Old English house with floral everything including lampshades and curtains as doors to keep out drafts
EVERYTHING in this 2 story B&B was floral (except for the well-worn and comfy leather couches). The drapes, lampshades, wallpaper, bedspreads and so forth. Curtains (floral, naturally) hung in doorways to keep the out drafts. Definitely an interesting, unusual and comfortable B&B.

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