After another large European breakfast, we are back on the road. Day 5 began on the northern shores of lake Myvatn where we gazed at the very indented shoreline, lava rocks and pseudo-craters. Rich plant life abounds.
Today is all about lava and geothermal. Dimmuborgir (dark crags) is our first stop. In Icelandic folklore, Dimmuborgir is believed to connect earth with the infernal regions (the gates of hell) and is home to elves and trolls. In reality, Dimmuborgir is an incredible lava landscape with unusual formations, columns, caves and arches. Dominating the scenery is an enormous arch, Kirkjan (the church). The entire area was once a lava lake.
According to the guide provided by Icelandic Farm Holidays, we were about 1/2 day behind schedule visiting sites so we hurry on to Hverfjall. Hverfjall is a round crater about 140 meters deep, 420 meters high and 1,300 meters in diameter. It is said to be one of the largest such craters in the world. Scientists estimate Hverfjall last erupted in 2500 BP and if I understand the mathematics of BP (before present), the crater last erupted in 550 BC (before Christ).
A well worn path leads to the crater rim! It is worth noting that in 1968, Neil Armstrong trained for the first moon landing in a nearby area.
Our first glimpse into the interior of the crater was amazing! 
Postcard from the rim… Can you tell the wind is about to blow us off the crater?
Looking just south from the crater rim, we see steam rising from nearby geothermal pools. This area is called Namafjall.
A pool in front of the crater.
As we leave the lake area, Hverir is on our right. With stinking steam vents and boiling mud pits, Hverir is a mass of geothermal activity. The topography is other worldly.
Steam vents. This hissing and crackling is surprisingly loud!!
Bubbling mud pits… “Double, double, toil and trouble, the cauldron will bubble” (Macbeth)
Hverir is surreal, how many ways can I say that?!! Although paths meandered around the steaming, bubbling ground, the area was noticeably lacking barriers to keep tourist from sticking their hands or feet in the wrong place.
Grjotagia, a rift (or fissure) lies south of the steam vents. Grjotagia was once a popular soaking place but additional disturbances in the 1970’s caused the water to be too hot for bathing.
Once again lunch was bread and cheese in our laps.
Another stunning waterfall on the side of the road, Godafoss (Gooafoss), falls of the gods. While not the tallest of falls, Godafoss is considered one of Iceland’s finest. According to the Icelandic Sagas, Porgeir of Ljosavagn threw his statues of the gods into the falls when Iceland converted to Christianity in 1000. You will have to read about Porgeir of Ljosavagn.
River just below the falls.
Finally Akureyri comes into view. Akureyri, population 17,000, is considered the capital of Northern Iceland and the 4th largest town. Located on Eyjafjordour, one of Iceland’s longest fjords, Akureyri is a center for trading, commerce and fishing. It is a very picturesque, clean city.
We stopped to walk around town. It is dinner time and after checking the menus at several restaurants, we decided on Greifinn. John ordered lamb chops, which he said were excellent. Kim and I ordered fish hash, a mix of fish, potatoes, cheese and other ingredients. Both are traditional Icelandic foods.
Farms, mountains, clouds and lakes fly by our car windows, as we returned to Highway 1. We are still a couple of hours away from our night’s lodging.
Finally, after a few wrong turns, we arrived at Steinsstaoir (Farm # 320) a guesthouse in the Varmahlio area (northwest Iceland). Our arrival time was just after 9:00 PM. Steinsstaoir is a recently renovated school house and we find it the most charming of our accommodations. While tired, the sky is still bright and we have trouble winding down so John and I walk around the property and take photos of the sunset.
We found art to be a major focal point in every guesthouse we stayed. Some featured photograph, other paintings, all portrayed something about Iceland.
Sunset… scenery around our guesthouse.
