Today we head north. The day will end at Lake Myvatn (#4 on the map) where we will explore lava fields, geothermal caves and a large crater.
Today was the kind of day we are coming to expect in Iceland, cool and gray. We left the farmhouse in a rain shower but it is hard to be unhappy with the weather. Iceland is very dramatic in the rain. The landscape is surreal, a gravel desert of sorts.
One might comment on the lack of trees in Iceland, we certainly did on many occasions. Our research indicates that Iceland was “deforested” early in it’s history, the wood used for charcoal, housing and fire. A few pockets of forest still exist, but heat is now geothermal, houses are of other material and we guess that charcoal must be imported.
Some 165 km from our starting point in Egilsstooum, we turned onto Highway 864. The road turned to gravel and we began 60 km of rough riding. We scanned the map for a place to stop and discovered a tiny village called Grimssstaoir, the only one for miles. A road sign, gravel drive and 4 buildings mark the town’s existence. In front of the second building is a hand lettered sign advertising coffee and cakes. We brought the car to a stop and headed to the front door. John pushed the front door open and paused, the building is clearly a private residence.
A young girl greeted us and we asked if this is the cafe. She smiled and pointed to the next room where 4 Brits sat chatting at a table, 1 of 2 tables in the room. We noticed that 3 bedrooms and the all important water closet satellite off the main room and realized we had stepped into the only B & B in this lonely stretch of Iceland. After trips to the WC, a bit of chit chat with the Brits and a take away cup of coffee, we are off again.
Our first stop is Dettifoss. Considered Iceland’s largest and Europe’s most powerful waterfall, the ground shakes as 212 tons of water per second thunder over the top. It was pouring rain as we pulled into the parking lot. Cars and large tour buses filled every available spot. Tourists in all styles of rain gear, moved to and from the trail to the falls.
We pulled on our rain jackets and hiked the short hike to the falls. Upstream is Selfoss but we stayed around Dettifoss, took photos and headed back to the car. Will and Kim hiked on.
John was hungry so we broke out the cheese and bread while sitting in the parking lot. The windows fogged with the moisture but we were cozy and dry in our little environment.
We continued on toward Jokulsa Canyon National Park. More incredible landscape!
Jokulsa Canyon National Park is considered the Grand Canyon of the North. The Jokulsa a Fjollum, one of Iceland’s greatest rivers, formed the steep walled canyon which includes Dettifoss and Selfoss. The national park also encompasses an incredible forested canyon that was created by a massive flood of the Jokulsa a Fjollum some 8,000 to 10,000 years ago. The flood packed so much power, that rocks washed away creating this canyon in 2 hours. Jokulsa Canyon is considered one of Iceland’s most beautiful natural wonders.
The canyon floor is filled with trees, lush foliage and purple and yellow flowers.
Kim, Will and John walking toward the canyon walls.
During the flood, the river split into 2 tributaries leaving behind a horse shoe shaped rock formation. Local legend has it that the formation is the hoof print of the god Ooinn’s magical stallion, Sleipnir.
Next stop on our journey was Husavik, a fishing village of 2,278. Located on the Eastern Shore of Skjalfandi-bay, the town is known as the whale watching capital of Europe. Unfortunately, we have no time to take a whale tour.
We were greeted by Icelandic ponies on the outskirts of Husavik. The ponies are smaller than most US horses, have beautiful manes, sturdy legs and sweet faces (the description of a non-horse person).
Whale watching boats at the harbor at Husavik.
Our final stop was Skutustaoir on the banks of Lake Myvatn where we spent the night. The photo below was shot as we entered the lake area. Hverfjall crater is visible on the left (partially hidden by the clouds).
We had reservations in the Sel-Hotel on the north side of the island. The exterior of the building looked like a rundown seacoast hotel and I was a bit nervous about the interior.
Not to worry, the rooms were charming, the best on our trip so far.
Days of dusty driving had taken a toll on our car. No question the dust permeated everything we carried with us.
After a pleasant and relatively inexpensive dinner of hamburger and fries at a local restaurant (maybe $25-28 US/each), we ordered dessert and took it back to our room…chocolate cake, fresh whipped cream and milk! There is no down time on this trip. We go 15 or more hours a day and are beginning to feel the effects.
From the front of the hotel, we have an incredible view pseudo craters. This area is all about lava and geothermal activity.
